How long would it take to visit 100 rock climbing locations in Australia and write a book about the journey? In this blog, John Morris introduces his book 17 Down Under: Australian Rock Climbing and highlights his 5 favourite climbs within 2 hours of Climb Fit St Leonards.
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It would be easy to list five classics from the Blue Mountains and trust me; there are plenty in the book but part of the joy of this project was seeking out the lesser-known gems. These are routes I’ve climbed multiple times, always with a smile, and always with an urge to go back.
Note: At moderate grades, “best” isn’t always about challenge; it’s about movement, history, rock texture, setting, and the feeling that follows you back to the car.
Here's my top 5
25m old-school chimney battle 1hr from Climb Fit.
Long by Sydney standards, and once even awarded the lofty grade of 19 for sport climbers unfamilar in the dark art of wide crack climbing, this bolted chimney has a heck of a lot of character. It’s awkward, old-school, and utterly brilliant. If you like this sort of thing, well, this is exactly the sort of thing you’ll like.
Caption: John Morris on Wacky Tabacci (17) at the Cathedral, Sydney.
Photo by Mike Law (pictured at top of the blog)
110m sweeping volcanic bolted slab 1hr 40mins from Climb Fit.
From a young age, my dad instilled in me a love of slab climbing, so when I first visited Mt Gibraltar, I was genuinely delighted by the long, flowing jaunts up its perfect rock. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but this well-protected excursion has served as many climbers’ first multi-pitch adventure, and it’s easy to see why.
Caption:Steve Morris in his element, enjoying the delightful slab of The Very Easy Route (13) with balance, focus, and a quiet grin.
Photo by John Morris (pictured below)
50m seaside sandstone face 1hr 40mins from Climb Fit.
Sunrise climbing above the ocean? Yes please. This modern, wandering seaside adventure is pure joy, warm sandstone, salty air, and smiles. Established in 2017, it’s a reminder that there is still untouched rock still out there, waiting for the next generation of climbers to uncover.
Caption: Mike Law having a Whale of a Time (16) on Scarborough Cliffs, a very fun multi pitch adventure.
Photo by John Morris (below)
None of these are “trophy climbs”, except maybe Firebug. They’re not my favourites because they’re the hardest or the most photographed, but because of the moments around them: sunrise carpark breakfasts, quiet walks to the crag, shared gear and laughter, and that simple joy of topping out.
Those are the moments that became 17 Down Under: Australian Rock Climbing.
- John Morris
